Have you heard about protein skincare? New components are capable of optimizing the performance of dermocosmetics by stimulating better cellular functioning.
The anti-aging market is growing more and more, that is a fact. As a result, industries are seeking to stand out, frantically launching more effective products and technologies. And that is where peptides come in . These substances appear with the promise of leveraging the rejuvenating power of creams and, for this reason, they have been called “protein cosmetics”.
According to pharmacists peptides are promising substances in the fight against aging. They have amino acids in their composition, playing a fundamental role in protein synthesis. Thanks to their bioactive properties, they are able to interact with skin cells through multiple mechanisms and facilitate cellular communication in processes such as: immune and stress response, homeostasis and growth. They combat inflammation, inhibiting the activity of pro-inflammatory messengers.
“Peptides for the formation and stimulation of good quality collagen, with tissue repair, healing, filling, pigmentation control action, in short, among many types of peptides, they form an indispensable category for enhancing skin rejuvenation”, guarantees dermatologist Dr. Claudia Marchal
But what are they and how do they act?
Peptides are short chains of amino acids – the building blocks of proteins. “The best-known proteins in the skin are collagen, elastin and keratin. It is worth remembering that collagen is the main protein in our body; elastin is responsible for the fibers that support collagen and keep the skin cohesive and adherent, preventing the formation of wrinkles and sagging. There are hundreds of different peptides, which are made from different combinations of amino acids. They stimulate cell communication and proliferation,” she adds. “These amino acid sequences can be natural or synthetic. This is one of the active ingredients defined as ‘biomimetic,’ that is, they imitate the natural structures of the skin. In the cosmetics segment, peptides with very small structures are used, as size can influence the penetration of the active ingredient into the skin,” she explains.
As small particles, they can be absorbed better and more quickly by our body. In the skin, they penetrate, find the cell receptor, bind to it and produce a certain effect. “These molecules are extremely versatile and have several uses and functions. They work as signalers, which show the body the need to produce specific proteins for skin health, such as cell renewal, stimulating collagen production and consequently increasing skin firmness, reducing wrinkles and expression lines. They also act to even out the skin, reduce blemishes, hyperpigmentation and increase radiance”.
The dermatologist explains that an important function of peptides is to improve skin anchoring by stimulating collagen formation and the expression of Laminin and Integrin, proteins in the skin’s cell membrane. “In addition, there are peptides that promote skin barrier repair by mimicking the composition of amino acids present in the Natural Moisturizer Factor (NMF), providing whitening, skin firming and elasticity, as well as repair and hydration. They are widely used in anti-aging treatments and, through the recombinant chains of various amino acids, also act as a dermal relaxant,” she explains.
Pharmacists explain that there are many types of peptides and they are classified according to the number of amino acids present in the molecules: dipeptide (formed by two amino acids), tripeptide (formed by three), tetrapeptide (four), oligopeptide (from four to 50 amino acids) and polypeptide (formed by more than 50 amino acids – a category that includes proteins, which are made up of a large number of amino acids). The dermatologist explains that peptides in vectorized form provide rapid absorption. “When biomimetic, they simulate natural proteins and act quickly on the skin,” she comments.
“They have a more important action when vectorized and encapsulated in their own systems for more significant results,” she says. Two important peptides are called Alistin and EvenSkin A3. “Alistin is a biomimetic peptide of carcinogen that acts to neutralize free radicals and also the harmful effects of sugar,” says the doctor. “For a well-aging effect, the active ingredient Progeline can be used; It is a biomimetic peptide derived from Elafin, which inhibits progerin, an enzyme that is a biomarker of aging. With this approach, Progeline can act on different causes of skin aging, restoring more vitality and strength to the skin, thus providing its facial remodeling action. It can be associated with Ascorbosilane C, a Vitamin C molecule vectorized by the Silanol molecule”.
Cosmetologist emphasizes the importance of using peptides that act on a cellular structure that has been gaining relevance in the fight against aging: the mitochondria. “It is responsible for the synthesis of ATP and can be considered the cellular “powerhouse”, after all, without energy, organic functions decline. Bio-Arct® (oral version) and Arct Alg® (topical version) contain citrulyl-arginine dipeptide in their composition. They act by combating the formation of free radicals and stimulating mitochondrial biosynthesis, regulating its metabolism, in addition to effectively participating in the activation of proteins related to cellular repair. With the increase in mitochondrial synthesis, we will have greater cellular activity, citing fibroblasts as an example – when activated, they will increase the production of collagen and elastic fibers, resulting in more structured, firm and resistant skin”, explains the pharmacist.
What is the most interesting strategy for using a peptide?
According to the dermatologist, it is possible to use them one day after your acid, retinoic or alpha-hydroxy acid, to get the most out of them, as they will penetrate the skin better and promote stimulation of the proteins that help to renew the skin. “Peptides can be combined in the same product with a rejuvenating action for skin that shows the first signs of aging with a decrease in the production of essential proteins,” says the dermatologist.There are technologies used in the office that can already promote light exfoliation of the skin and then deposit peptides in the deeper layers. This is the case of HydraFacial, a customizable hydrodermabrasion technology that deeply cleanses and hydrates the skin. The procedure uses peptides in some stages of the treatment. «The platform has several tips, each with a different characteristic, and can remove dirt and oil, including micropollutants that adhere to the pores and that we cannot always remove with manual skin cleansing. There is also the application of beta-hydroxy acids, such as salicylic acid, and alpha-hydroxy acids, such as glycolic acid, to reduce the thickness of the stratum corneum, which is the first layer of the skin, which prepares the skin to receive the ‘drug-delivery’, which will introduce collagen signaling peptides, antioxidants, whitening agents and moisturizing substances into the skin, reaching deeper layers. The experience can be combined with lymphatic drainage, in addition to the use of LED, which will promote a specific anti-inflammatory action and stimulation of ATP, cell energy”, says Dr. Claudia Marchal.
Oral skin supplements can also contain peptides. Glycoxil, a peptide derived from carcinogen that has an antiglycant effect, preventing glycation (the binding of sugar molecules to collagen, resulting in the hardening of supporting fibers), a deglycant effect (promoting the separation of glucose from collagen and elastin fibers), and an antioxidant effect, combating the action of free radicals. «In this way, this active ingredient acts in all phases of glycation, thus helping to prevent premature aging of tissues and maintain skin health,» doctor concludes. In the future, the pharmaceutical company expects to see formulations with peptides with prolonged action, better absorption and sophisticated sensory. “In addition, they will allow the delivery of active ingredients needed for each situation. For example, a peptide-based product for straightening or coloring hair that will work without the need to open the hair cuticles, thus minimizing water loss and consequent damage to the structure of the hair fiber. Peptides will also be great allies of Epigenetics in ultra-personalized treatments,” concludes the pharmaceutical company.