In a fascinating city in Morocco, lies a unique gastronomic authenticity full of striking colors, smells and flavors. We travel to Marrakesh to explore a route of ten unforgettable gastronomic addresses.
There are few popular tourist destinations that manage to maintain their roots and authenticity. Marrakesh is one of them, and this starts with the food. I am absolutely fascinated by the universe of colors, smells and peculiar flavors of this great culinary cultural paradise . The Berber and Arab heritage, the African influences, and – unfortunately – the traces of the French colonial era, make Marrakesh an unparalleled gastronomic destination.
Before sitting down to sample the many local specialties, it makes perfect sense to stroll through the labyrinth of the Medina, soak up the atmosphere of the lively squares, explore the traditional markets, smell the spices, enjoy a Turkish bath – the local hammam – and admire the magnificent architecture of the Koutoubia Mosque or the El Badi Palace, among many other options. It was in this corner of the world that the Frenchman Yves Saint Laurent decided to enjoy his finest moments.
In the 1980s, together with his husband Pierre Bergé, the fashion designer fell in love with the Jardin Majorelle estate and decided to take ownership of the vibrant color palette, botanicals and architecture of this house, which are worth admiring. After his death in 2008, his ashes were scattered in the gardens as a testament to his love for the city, a timeless source of inspiration for his creations. Right next door, in the museum that bears his name, you can learn more about his life and admire his works.
Let’s get to my favorite subject. Diving into Marrakesh cuisine is a true homage to the local culture and its blends. Get ready to live an intense experience, feel an abundant richness and digest the influences that coexist in the surroundings. In this magical land, aromatic herbs and spices set the tone and are always the protagonists. My favorite foods in Marrakesh, and not only there, are those found on the street.
For example, I love pastilla, a crispy puff pastry filled with pigeon meat and almonds. The typical meat skewers, called brochettes, are mixed in at the stands with falafels, breaded squid, samosas and potatoes. Further afield, the rituals and specialties of the Moroccan table are many and deserve to be tasted with affection in the city’s many good restaurants.
Starting with harira, a soup made with lentils, tomatoes, meat and, always, plenty of spices. Tagine, a worldwide icon, is a stew with vegetables and a type of meat that needs no introduction. There are several ways to prepare it, and everyone has their own. Another feature of the local culture is Moroccan couscous, which has been exported to several menus around the world. The list of specialties and recipes is huge. It’s always good to set aside some time to try the local sweets, my biggest sin. The fact is, you can go back and forth to Marrakesh as many times as you want, because there’s always something delicious to try.
I SHARE, THEREFORE, AN OLD AND WISE ADVICE: GO TO Marrakesh WITHOUT ANY RUSH, WITH AN OPEN MIND, WITH AN APPETITE FOR DISCOVERY, AND WITH A LOT OF HUNGRY.
One day, during my first visit to the city more than ten years ago, I was strolling through the mythical main square, Jemaa el-Fna. A little away from the hustle and bustle, I met a very elderly gentleman who offered to take me for a walk and guide me. We chatted for a while and then continued walking.
We stopped in the middle of the Medina to have some mint tea, a Moroccan habit that I love. Suddenly, I looked at my watch and was in a hurry to continue. We stopped at a store to buy some crockery. Then, he put his hand on my shoulder, looked deep into my eyes and said, “You know what, a man in a hurry is a dead man.” That phrase and that moment left an impression on me. I went on with my life with that thought in my heart. To this day, when a feeling of anxiety and haste takes hold of me, I dare to remember that saying. So I share an old and wise piece of advice: go to Marrakesh without rushing, with an open mind, with an appetite for discovery, and with a lot of hunger. Go and come back several times, as much as possible. Among the dozens of good gastronomic options in the city, I sincerely hope that these ten places will leave their mark on your memory as they did on mine.
Le Bacha The history of the beautiful Bacha Coffee is fascinating. Built in 1910, the imposing Dar el Bacha palace welcomed personalities from the world of art and politics over steaming cups of Arabica coffee. More than 60 years later, several architects and historians worked together with artisans from different trades to renovate and breathe life back into this emblematic temple. Today called the Musée des Confluences, it is an incredible place to have a cup of coffee or even take a stroll, which is at the very least intriguing.
La Grande Table Marocaine Inside the sumptuous Royal Mansour hotel is one of the best restaurants in Morocco and the world. La Grande Table Marocaine takes traditional Moroccan cuisine to the highest level and style of cuisine and hospitality. Everything is top-notch from start to finish, without a single flaw along the way. The emblematic palace hotel of the King of Morocco has chosen the French Michelin-starred chef Hélène Darroze to take over the culinary direction of the restaurant, which has won numerous awards and stars thanks to its consistency and its uninterrupted pursuit of excellence over the years.
Dar Yacout Striking, powerful, sumptuous, unique in the world. The restaurant experience begins with arrival in the streets of the Medina followed by a picturesque entrance through an almost secret door – since it is located on top of a riad, the name given to the rich houses of the region. Once inside, sit down and prepare to experience abundant, harmonious and unforgettable moments. The best of authentic Moroccan cuisine is brought to the table in a service ceremony that I have never seen before. Go hungry, very hungry, and take your time.
Al Fassia Founded in 1986 by a group of Moroccan women from the same family, this restaurant is a true gem and institution. The name “Al Fassia” means “woman of Fès”, referring to the city of Fès, known for its rich gastronomic tradition. For more than three decades, this restaurant has been winning over food lovers with its traditional dishes, authentic décor and welcoming atmosphere with a feminine soul. I dare say that it serves some of the best couscous on the planet.
Terrasse Bakchich If you’re wandering through the busy streets of the Medina, shopping, people-watching or just strolling around, this tiny, traditional restaurant is worth a stop. Far from all the glamour and pomp of the fancy, luxurious tables, you’ll find one of the best tajines in the city. Don’t be afraid to enter the small kitchen, go upstairs and choose a table with a view. The owner and chef – whose name I’ve unfortunately forgotten – is there every day, smiling, welcoming and talkative. He prepares the tajines following ancestral family instructions. His son is in charge of the service. I clearly remember the delicious dish and all the care with which it was served.
Scarabeo Camp Agafay, a mineral land with a lunar landscape, is a perfect setting to watch the sunset. The restaurant sets up white tents that contrast with the impressive Atlas Mountains. In a journey into the past, an atmosphere that takes you on an expedition to the golden age of explorers, a true sensory experience. From the campfires at dusk, to the aroma of fresh bread carried by the pure, fresh air of dawn, this luxury gastronomic camp takes its guests, with serenity and magic, towards an alchemy conducive to wandering daydreams.
Sahbi Sahbi In Morocco, the kitchen is often a secret place, the hidden domain of the dada, women who pass down recipes from generation to generation. It is precisely with this intention, of sharing and transmitting knowledge, that diners are welcomed. In a beautiful open kitchen set in the center of the dining room, women are the focus and pay homage to Moroccan gastronomic culture with a creative and diverse menu. The team includes women from different regions and backgrounds. The result is a beautiful feminine “melting pot” and a wonderful culinary expression.
L’Ô à la Bouche Mouth-watering. French without being conceited, Michelin-starred chef Hervé Paulus made his name with his bistronomy cuisine, an interesting mix of bistro cuisine and haute cuisine. Located in the heart of the Gueliz neighborhood, he welcomes his customers in an elegant and friendly atmosphere – from the ambiance to the food. The result of seasonal cuisine with fresh, expertly chosen products provides an interesting taste experience.
Grand Café de La Poste A postcard of the city, this café-restaurant is a meeting place for many people. Located on the 16 November square in the Gueliz neighborhood, away from the Medina, the building built in the 1920s is part of Marrakesh’s historical heritage and symbolizes the end of the protectorate era. The place, which was once a café and a post office, is now a mix of an international brasserie and a bar. A true social icon, it is an ideal place to see and be seen. The menu, without many surprises, includes classic French cuisine with local touches.
Pâtisserie Amandine One of my favorite sweets in life is the “Corne de Gazelle”. Biting into it always reminds me of my grandmother. She used to give me this treat at the end of meals. The name refers to the gazelle horns that have a similar shape. This sweet with Arabic and Andalusian influences is made from a delicate and soft dough made from wheat flour, butter and orange blossom water, with an almond paste filling. At this French-heritage pâtisserie you can try this specialty and enjoy several other typical local and French sweets.