Star of the desert

n the vastness of northern Chile lies Wara, a welcoming and sophisticated refuge that converses equally with luxury, geography and pre-Hispanic culture.

by L`OFFICIEL

Making simple things a luxury. That is the philosophy behind Wara , a boutique hotel located in Copiapó, in the heart of the Atacama Desert , but in a much less explored territory than the traditional San Pedro. Here, the feeling of visiting a unique landscape in the world remains almost intact, with the largest sea of ​​dunes in Chile around and, above your head, skies that allow astrological sightings as if they were special effects. That magic was what conquered Susana Aránguiz more than 35 years ago, who in 2014 decided to materialize her own vision of life by building Wara. 

As if the cinematic scenery provided by nature were not enough, this place was inaugurated by receiving the entire film crew of The 33 (Patricia Riggen), a film based on the true story of the Chilean miners trapped in the San José mine. Actors such as Juliette Binoche, Antonio Banderas, Gabriel Byrne, James Brolin and Rodrigo Santoro were the first to enjoy its facilities. They all promised to return. 

Wara means starlight in Quechua, and that is why this hotel was designed to not emit light pollution after sunset so that its guests can appreciate the starry skies in full magnitude. It is not for nothing that in 2019 it was recognized as the “Best place to relax in America” by the Boutique Hotel Awards, an initiative promoted by the United Kingdom to highlight excellence in accommodations of this type. The pandemic put a stop to the usual hotel activity in the north of the country – and indeed the world – so now they are preparing to welcome back visitors looking for a unique travel experience, or one that is isolated enough to feel the tranquility and silence of the environment.

THE VALUE OF THE ANCESTRAL

When Susana Aránguiz moved to the north of Chile in 1984 as a way to escape routine and “get out of the system,” as she herself explains, she never thought there would be a before and after in her life. She traveled from Santiago –where she was studying civil construction and landscaping– to Totoral, a town in the Atacama Region, hoping to be able to give greater meaning to her own existence in the desert. She arrived there armed with materials to build her own house and learn to live in a simpler way. She soon began to teach totora craft workshops to the women of the area, along with food and energy self-sufficiency systems. She also immersed herself in the ancestral culture of the region and set out to rescue the ancient tradition of quincha (indigenous construction of branches and mud), a technique that she now uses in the rooms and common areas of her award-winning five-star hotel with roofs made from totora reeds, something that has become her hallmark. “I came here in search of the meaning of life, with the desire to contribute my grain of sand to people who lived in isolation and with few resources,” he says, but along the way he discovered a way to give the region a form of development that he had not known about. 

Between the years 1800 and 1900, Copiapó was famous abroad for its mineral wealth due to the discovery of silver deposits. All this history is imbued in the architecture and decoration of Wara. This is how teardrop lamps made of this material coexist with mud walls and textiles full of color woven by Colla women from the region. The Mapuche arrived in the south of Chile from Argentine Patagonia; in the north the same thing happened with this indigenous people, who brought from the northwest of that country a rich textile craft that Susana has made sure to highlight in every corner of the hotel. “I am interested in these cultures and the richness of their work and way of life,” she explains

Wara means starlight in Quechua, and that is why this hotel was designed to not emit light pollution after sunset so that its guests can fully appreciate the starry skies.

REINTERPRETING LUXURY

As well as conveying the idea that Atacama is a much more pristine alternative to venturing into the desert, the great challenge for Susana Aránguiz and the Wara team is to highlight the region and its surrounding towns. That is why she assures that part of the experience they offer is to promote and make the most of the area, always through activities that combine adventure with the comforts of a hotel of its characteristics. “We want to cook outside, observe the stars around a campfire and offer experiences such as an intimate dinner in the middle of the dunes, always well attended and with good food,” they assure. According to the creator of the project, the simplicity of these things is what makes each person return home happy and with a different outlook on life after a stay. “In those moments one questions oneself, thinks a lot and that becomes something special not to forget,” she emphasizes. 

The hotel has seven rooms – more like villas – of between 50 and 90 square metres, separated from each other, with a terrace and private garden, to offer maximum privacy. As for gastronomy, towards the coast of the Atacama Region, rock fish and seafood such as oysters, octopus and locos abound. At Wara, these seafood products are combined with typical side dishes from northern Chile, such as quinoa, or with vegetables from their own organic garden. They also source from local suppliers in order to promote the circular economy, always faithful to Susana’s sustainable vision.

The climate in Copiapó is one of the best in Chile, with sunshine practically guaranteed all year round. For this reason, life at Wara takes place not only within its facilities, but also in its surroundings. Under this premise, the Wara Nómade extension was born, a glamping site 45 minutes away that blends into the landscape and offers all the comforts of the hotel along with the experience of camping in front of the sea even when in the desert. An absolute combination of wildlife with the new luxury; that which is measured by the moments we spend connecting with what is truly essential and enjoying everything that happens in the meantime.

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