Made of surprises that occur every second, Africa is the mother of all adventures. Getting to know the continent is the best way to understand that protecting nature means ensuring the life of the planet.
I was packing my bags to return to homeland when I received an invitation from the Sariri Terra agency to visit the Great Plains Conservation project, developed in Zimbabwe, Botswana and Kenya by documentary filmmaker Dereck Joubert and photographer Beverly Joubert, authors of books, editorials and scientific articles, and producers of more than 30 films – some of which have won eight Emmy Awards that celebrate stories about the natural world, also known as “Green Oscars”. The theme? The protection of key wildlife species, essential for the functioning of ecosystems.
During the time I was hosted by the Great Plains Conservation team of guides, I was able to visit their camps or “camps” set up in Kenya, the birthplace of the African safari. The term safari, as Dereck recalls, means “journey” in the Bantu language Kiswahili and fits the work they do, defined as Conservation Tourism – unlike the companies in the sector that operate there and that prioritize traditional travel programs, occasionally engaging in ecotourism activities. GPC organizes environmentally positive travel experiences, using the benefits generated to transform protected areas into sustainable lands.
First of all, you need to keep in mind that experiencing a safari means adapting to the time zone of the wild, that is, waking up before the sun rises and going to bed not long after it sets, every day. To this day, I miss waking up in the jungle, when my guide would knock on my door every morning with a tray of hot coffee and fresh biscuits, the “African wake-up call”, perfect for keeping me going on this adventure, which begins between 5 and 5:30 am. I love this ritual, and it doesn’t bother me at all, even on cold winter mornings. I must confess that I often jumped out of bed before the time, with my heart racing, counting down the minutes until I could throw myself into the adventure. I started my safari at Ol Donyo Lodge, which was built on a 111,000-hectare ranch on the border of Chyulu Hills National Park. Overlooking Mount Kilimanjaro, the Camp is located on an ancient lava rock expelled by the volcano 360,000 years ago. The six suites offer the comfort needed after a busy day of hiking, mountain biking , horseback riding or in open-top cars. With 4,000 Maasai as guardians, the space highlights the culture of this semi-nomadic group, who live between Tanzania and Kenya, in small villages surrounded by branches and thorny trunks to keep out animals and occupied by houses built with acacia poles and cow dung or river mud. While the women build the houses and take care of the family, the men herd and manage the village. The jewelry that adorns the ears and necks is made by them in patterns that match the colorful clothes worn by everyone in the tribe, in striking reds, blues and yellows. When I was traveling I came across the tribesmen leading their herds of cattle and goats from one pasture to another, it was impossible not to be enchanted by the beauty and cordiality of each one of them.
One of the many activities offered by the Lodge is mountain biking. You leave the camp by car , which takes all the equipment and leaves you in a safe place to cycle. With walking sticks in hand, Maasai shepherds were leading their herds of goats and cows to feed when I met them. A wave and a careful approach, since one group didn’t understand the other very well. The shepherds wanted to handle and learn how those bicycles with their more modern handlebars, tires and saddles worked. A few smiles later we ended the conversation and each went our separate ways. Cycling through the savannahs is wonderful, an inexplicable feeling of freedom, you control your speed, change the route, get very close to antelopes, zebras and giraffes. On the horseback safari, at first I trotted through very dense forests; In the first few kilometers, it was important to get in tune and establish a connection with my horse, as I had to be ready to bolt or retreat if he got scared by the sudden and unexpected approach of any animal, such as an elephant or even a feline. When I reached the open field, full of grazing wildebeest, the guide told me “you can gallop” and I finally went at high speed, challenged only by a few zebras intrigued by my presence. The wind in my face gave more tangible notes to the freedom I shared and I continued to the top of a hill, where a car with drinks and snacks was waiting for me. While my horse rested, I relaxed on colorful cushions enjoying the sunset.
Some camps in Kenya invest in observation posts, Ol Donyo Lodge is one of them. They install artificial water troughs that form a small lake, so that the animals can drink and cool off from the heat. Near these reservoirs, they build huts, more like hiding places camouflaged by branches with openings in the facades, where guests can watch from a few meters away, sitting comfortably and safely, groups of elephants, zebras, giraffes and monkeys sharing that space in harmony and respect – with the exception of the lions, whose arrival marks the departure of the others. Due to the quality of the images recorded there, the shelter is a paradise for photographers and videographers. A unique and unforgettable opportunity to be just a few meters away from wildlife, in a safe environment and, most importantly, without disturbing them. To observe without being observed.
Expecting the unexpected
At the other camps, it is worth mentioning, I was also able to enjoy the sunset in structures set up with rugs and cushions arranged under the trees. With the unexpected as an ingredient, some of these encounters were delayed because families of zebras and elephants would often cross the routes I was passing. When this happened, the cars would turn off and it was time to let them cross the road. Elephants always fascinated me; it was wonderful to watch the interaction of the calves with their mothers and aunts, who would intertwine their trunks to communicate. Once, the giant matriarch stopped right in front of the vehicle, opened her ears and raised her trunk, curiously analyzing the possibility of us posing some risk. Only after a few moments did she move on. Watching the twilight defining the contours of the landscape and the beautiful giraffes was, without a doubt, one of the highlights of the trip (I am completely in love with their long eyelashes and necks). I love watching them walk slowly through the trees, elegant and discreet, curious and very fearful, noisy only when they fought for territory and bumped their necks and produced hollow sounds – “tum-tum-tum” – in a majestic ballet. Many times, holding binoculars, I had the opportunity to notice the hills occupied by lions or leopards that checked the plains and swung their tails on the rocks in subtle movements, as if they were guarding their homes. As soon as I and the group saw them, we quickly followed them, and there, a few meters away, I would stay for a long time admiring their majesty. When you love photography and the place where you are, one of the most beautiful in the world, there is always the doubt between putting down the camera or capturing the moment. The dilemma was enormous. And irresistible.
Between colors and rhythms
Hidden by the thorn tree canopy, the three luxury suites and two two-bedroom family suites at Mara Nyika Camp are connected by walkways to the main area, giving the complex a treehouse feel. The rooms are breathtaking, discreet, chic and classic, and the decor is impeccable, blending African and Indian styles. On my first night, I woke up to the loud, hoarse roar of a lion, probably very close to my tent; I didn’t feel scared, but happy, because I was sure he had just come to “welcome” me. One of the unique features of this camp is the opportunity to visit the Naboisho Conservancy, the second largest protected area in this part of the country, with around 20 thousand hectares protected by 500 families of the Maasai ethnic group, who invest in maintaining the natural and cultural heritage and use tourism as a resource for generating jobs and income.
During my stay, I escaped the “local traffic” by taking a hot air balloon flight. I arrived at the takeoff point early in the morning, when everything was dark. Minutes later, the balloon slowly rose and the view I had from above, surrounded by other colorful balloons and the red sun that was rising and burning the plains, was literally breathtaking. The adrenaline enhanced the perception of the cold wind, the clouds that cast shadows on the ground, the rivers that marked the land in a sinuous way, the infinity of colors and the life happening from one side to the other, like the lion that approached the gazelles and made them all run away to be chased by other animals. At the end, when I landed, a plentiful breakfast table was waiting for me, and the group then toasted life.
The days pass slowly, but there is no shortage of activities. The next day, I had the opportunity to visit a local Maasai community. There, I was able to learn about their daily lives, chatted a lot, learned, danced and sang before saying goodbye.
The Mara Expedition Camp has a delicate infrastructure that revisits the romantic era of East Africa’s past. There are six canvas tents built on a small bend in the river. Its decor tells the story of the first explorers, filled with dark wooden trunks, leather sofas and armchairs, and brass lamps. The common area is lit entirely by candles and lanterns, and the surrounding area is populated by leopards and other felines that roam here and there. I also had the chance to observe, that September, one of the greatest movements in nature, the annual migration of almost 1.5 million wildebeest and zebras that leave the Maasai Mara National Reserve, where I was staying, in search of more fertile pastures towards the Serengeti, in Tanzania. During the crossing, the earth trembles, the loud sound of their moos contrasting with the noise of their hooves cutting through the water, quickly dodging the crocodiles that inhabit the river.
My tip is to extend your trip to other camps – such as Mara Plains Camp or Mara Toto Camp – and take advantage of the combination to explore equally important reserves, such as the Olare Motorogi Conservancy. Set on the banks of the Ntiakitiak River, Mara Toto Camp is at a meeting point between forest and savannah, along a grove of ebony trees whose canopies offer the ideal refuge for guests who enjoy the tranquility and comfort of the social area. The sophistication is provided by the four spacious and well-lit canvas tents, each with bathrooms equipped with huge brass showers.
Part of the Great Plains Conservation Reserve-Collection, Mara Plains Camp is one of three properties in the country that carry the Relais & Châteaux seal, an association created in 1954 that brings together 580 hotels and restaurants committed to excellence in hospitality and gastronomy and the preservation of local culture, heritage and the environment. At the luxurious camp, each guest contributes significantly to the success of the Olare Motorogi Conservancy through fees that support the maintenance of the park and the more than 1,000 Maasai families who protect the site. The seven tents are incorporated into the forest with details that make them irresistible, including private verandas, four-poster suites, rustic wooden floors and copper bathtubs. Home to nearly 300 species of birds, as well as other resident species, the sanctuary invites impromptu glances and, not surprisingly, the dormitories are equipped with binoculars, cameras and professional lenses, transforming the safari into an intimate and personal experience. So you wake up, have breakfast and go to the balcony to be faced with the layers of green tones of the vegetation and the reds produced by the sunrise, feeling the cool breeze on your face and your heart racing.
On the trail of adventure
As the team at Porini Camps, a company that has been protecting wildlife and its habitat for over 30 years, together with the local community, and which welcomed me on the final stretch of this itinerary, explains, eco-safari camps tend to be smaller, with a certain rustic and discreet charm to high-end lodges. In addition, the fact that their facilities are located in private reserves means that the experiences become a personal and unforgettable adventure. Twenty minutes from Jomo Kenyatta International Airport, the small Wilson Airport and the city center of Nairobi, the capital of Kenya, is the Nairobi Tented Camp, located in the heart of the forest of Nairobi National Park. Its tented rooms are charming and comfortable, with a rustic-chic style, and the Lodge also has two additional spaces that serve as a lounge and restaurant. Energy consumption, as is the case with the Great Plains, uses LED lights and solar panels. Ideal for the first or last day of a safari trip. The atmosphere that emerges on this type of trip is one of camaraderie. At dusk, when I return to the Lodge, I always find chairs and benches arranged around a campfire under the moon and stars. There, where everyone gathers together, wrapped in blankets, having drinks before dinner and sharing what they saw that day to the sound of the crackling of the slowly burning log and the sounds of the animals that roam nearby, true luxury lies in these small details and moments. In the 7,560-hectare area of the Ol Kinyei Conservancy is the Porini Mara Camp, with its five spacious tents and a unit consisting of a living room and two bedrooms with a veranda, just the right size for families or groups traveling together. Set up in a canvas tent, the dining room was designed to be practical and comfortable, with a dining room and lounge decorated with sofas, cowhide rugs and a coffee station. If the previous journeys had some kind of filter, such as the windows ofIn cars, the walking safari, one of the activities I participated in at the Camp, exposes you to what it is like to be in contact with nature. Alongside Maasai guides, I walked for miles across open plains, close enough to the giraffes to notice the size and color of the spots on their fur. Not to mention the height of the males, which can reach 5 meters. With your ears more attentive, you stop, sit and listen to the explanation about the vegetation that grows there and about the plants and flowers that each species uses in its diet. Even though you feel more vulnerable, the pleasure of the walk is being able to hold some fruits, smell them and find small animals – for me, this is the true spirit of the safari, the one that connects you with the ground. Although it is a serene place that exudes tranquility, the land of Africa pulses and the feeling of being there is intense. A destination where everything presents itself differently at every moment, the landscape changes at every corner and the wildlife is in constant movement. There, where I truly connect, where my soul rejuvenates and I feel at home.